Double cleansing 101: is it good or bad for acne?

As someone who’s struggled with acne-prone, sensitive skin for years, I’ve tried pretty much every cleansing trend out there — from oil cleansers to cleansing balms to the famous “double cleanse.” The idea sounds great: wash twice, get cleaner skin. But the truth is, not every skin type benefits from it, especially if you’re breakout-prone like me.

Why Double Cleansing Became So Popular

The double cleansing trend started in K-beauty, where people use an oil cleanser or balm first to remove makeup and sunscreen, followed by a regular cleanser to wash away leftover residue. In theory, it makes sense. Makeup, SPF, and oil don’t always come off easily with water alone.

And to be fair, oil cleansers do remove makeup really well. But here’s where I personally think the trend can go wrong.

How Does Double Cleansing Work? 

*image taken from Lab Muffin Beauty. Check out her blog article which goes further into the science behind how cleansers work. 

Double cleansing works on a simple chemistry principle: oil removes oil. The first step uses oil-based cleansers or balms that melt away sebum, makeup, and sunscreen by bonding with the skin’s natural oils. The second step involves a water-based cleanser that relies on surfactants, which are molecules that lift away dirt, sweat, and leftover residue when mixed with water. This two-step method ensures that both oil and water-soluble impurities are fully removed. That said, a well-formulated cleanser with balanced surfactants and gentle actives can do the job just as effectively in one wash, without needing extra oils or balms that might clog pores or irritate acne-prone skin.

Why I Don’t Think You Need an Oil Cleanser

If you’re using the right gentle cleanser, you don’t necessarily need to double cleanse at all. Our Calm Me Down Antioxidant Cleanser was made with that exact idea in mind. It removes makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup all in one go, without stripping your skin. I formulated this because I was tired of using multiple products to cleanse my face and wanted to simplify the whole cleansing routine for my sensitive, acne-prone skin.

It contains 4% Betaine Salicylate (a gentle BHA) to keep pores clear, plus Centella Asiatica, Oat Extract, and Allantoin to soothe and calm irritation. You can literally feel your skin clean, not tight.

If you wear heavy or waterproof eye makeup, that’s the one time I’d recommend a separate eye makeup remover — just so you don’t have to rub too hard around your eyes.

The Problem With Trending Oil Cleansers and Balms

Here’s the thing — a lot of oil cleansers and balms require you to rub your face for at least a minute, sometimes even longer. I’ve seen creators suggest five minutes of massaging, which might sound like “self-care,” but over time, all that rubbing can irritate your skin barrier.

When your barrier weakens, your skin can actually get drier and more inflamed, which often leads to more breakouts.

Another issue is that some oil cleansers and balms include ingredients that aren’t suitable for acne-prone skin. They might feel luxurious, but they can easily clog pores and make acne worse and I’ve personally been there. I used to think I needed an oil cleanser to really get everything off, but every time I did, I broke out even more.

That’s when I realized: you don’t actually need a cleansing oil or balm to get clean skin. Most well-formulated cleansers (like ours) contain surfactants that break down makeup and SPF without the extra step or the risk of clogging your pores.

My Honest Take

If you love double cleansing and it works for your skin then great, stick with it. But if you’re someone who breaks out easily or has a sensitive, compromised barrier, I’d say skip the oil cleansers and keep it simple.

A gentle yet effective cleanser that can remove everything in one wash is enough. Your skin doesn’t need more steps — it needs the right ones.

That’s exactly why I created Calm Me Down. To make cleansing simple, soothing, and effective, especially for acne-prone skin that’s tired of overcomplicated routines.